
Breathe now, and forever hold your peace!
How is it June 9th already?
Jori and I don’t sleep much at all the last 2 nights of our stay in Kerala, thanks to our fun apartment-mates Nick and Daniel. We leave Fort Cochin dead tired, on some kind of high at first that just turns into hunger and head aches for the both of us. By the time our 2nd flight takes off we’re deliriously looking across the aisle at each other—”I’m SO tired” & “I’m SO hungry”—smiles gone.
We arrive, wait a long time for our bags, but apparently not long enough because the friends of a friend we’re supposed to be staying with aren’t answering the phone! Ah, they’re out clubbing in CP, of course, duh—it’s a Saturday. We then get a mentally/socially/directionally challenged taxi driver for too much money; we just want to get to a bed. Finally get to the enormous apartment complex, find the place, wait for the clubbing kiddos, and eventually eat a bit of spicy curry and rice, socialize with the nice folks and pass out—Jori in a camping tent on top of the bed in case of mosquitoes. Hilarious.
The next day is setting up to be a scorcher, we get in an AC taxi and I go straight to my old ‘hood to Subrata and Sima’s house. Prep for Dharamsala, play with Sarang, play on the interweb and eat TONS of home-cooked Bengali food. Mmmmm, svadist haay. The in-laws are in town (Subrata’s parents) and papa is sick, so it’s a bit cramped and sleepless in that one bedroom. They are wonderful hosts though, and I have a whole day and a half of relaxing. Take a bath, clean underwear, et all good things.
Bus to McLeod Ganj = 11-ish hours with 2 nice drug-induced naps. I am shaken awake at 4 AM at a pit stop, eat that good vanilla ice cream and stay up reading with a flashlight till the sun comes up. And at this point the roads are winding. Serious mountain roads, on a fast bus. We arrive around 6, 6:30 AM and everyone else walks off or rickshaws off to their booked accommodations. I wander. Sit and keep reading, I’m almost done with Ayn Rand’s Atlas Shrugged. The monks and women of Tibet-in-exile’s capital walk and chant past me. Mantras while moving. That’s real ras.
I like this traveling alone thing. I find the one chai shop that’s open and get a cheap glass of the hot stuff that’s SO delicious and that I missed much in the South (chai’s just not a big thang down there). I’ll definitely be making this at home. Black tea leaves + milk in a pot, add as much cinnamon, cardamom + ginger as I want, and then of course plenty of sugar. No water necessary for the real good, milky stuff.
I finally find an open internet shop and check my stuff. No reply from Gabe yet, I assume he’s still at a spot called Samadhi House, where they slept the night before. Sounds good, right? By 8 AM he wouldn’t have left, right? Wrong. I grab a rickshaw up the hill, wander a path a bit with my heavier and heavier baggage, and no Gabe nor Alli. They left this morning, I’m told. I know they’re moving further up the hill today, somewheres in Dharamkot, so I head up. Chai shop. Stop. Read. Eat. Read. Wait. Nice people surround. Wait. This feels like Peet’s! Like sitting outside of a Peet’s! I meet a nice woman from Palo Alto and look at her gorgeous photographs from her travels all over, talk with some straight Peet’s Coffee Bums, and around 10 AM here comes Gabriel up the hill, carrying a bunch of stuff, like it’s nothin. It feels Normal to be seeing this face…hmmm yet we’re in the Himalayas. He says almost immediately, “This is like Berkeley, right?!” Wild.
Embrace, and then we move. Into an amazing apartment that’s a little hard to find, but the perfect spot on the hill.

We’re getting set up, he already knows his way around (they got here 3 or 4 days earlier) and I’m in a daze. But happy. Not sure what to make of this place, this supposedly-spiritual, high spot filled with people searching, or people found…
It is sunny but not boiling! That’s a start. You can see a snow-capped mountain in the not-so-distant distance. And we’re perched at the top of a valley filled with spiritual jews, yogis, tai chi-ers, hikers, farmers, tourist homes and of course monks and nuns. I meet the puppy named: Shanti, Roscoe, Ruoch, Shakina, and add one of my own—Winky. She winks. Adorable, just a few weeks old, teething but loving. She sleeps with me the first two nights and then goes adventuring/missing. Maybe she’ll come back. The kids in the upstairs apartment are sad she’s gone. Kai, Kenya, Saleef + baby Solomon. But I don’t think the baby’s even aware there was a puppy. Beautiful kids.
I have a blissful, mind-full, body-full day of yoga morning, brunch, belly dancing, and yoga evening, then cooking and relaxing at home with new + old friends. The agama yoga center is tres cool, and I love the peeps I meet. We do a set of several sun salutations with mantras in the later class, and I absolutely love the feeling of the vibrations in my stretching body.
Climbing up and down this hill at least once a day, sometimes thrice (!), is really getting me fit. Also eating yummy but simple meals, feels clean, delicious—cheap veggies galore. This is health. Some weasel or other creature steals our good cheese, but we’re too shanti to mind. I sleep so comfortably every night and wave to Alli when she leaves for yoga at 5 AM.
Gabe, Noam, Debora and I hike to a waterfall “just around the bend,” through occasional sleet (and sun), through an occasional herd of grazing mountain goats
and jump in the Northern-Pacific-Ocean-Cold pool of mountain water. Pins and needles and feeling HIGH. I slip and scrape and almost fall while climbing (3 of the 4 of us are wearing flip flops. Brilliant.) Then, disaster kind of actually strikes when Gabe accidentally drops his open backpack into the water. We both jump down and rescue the bag, with most of the contents spilled out and floating. We think we’ve saved everything—Both our passports, my wallet, Both our journals (ALL of gabey’s writing), the mango, etc. We think we’ve got it all. A couple days later, packing up all my stuff, I am looking for my Leatherman knife and I remember where it was used last… it must now be lying with the rocks at the bottom of a small pool on a high hill in that dang waterfall. This is sad. We used it to open a Delicious papaya as soon as we arrived at the falls, so at least in its glorious last day it was put to good use and will be remembered fondly…
That incident and stepping on a bee were the only negative experiences I had, 5 days in Bhagsu-Dharamkot-heaven. Oh, and now I am starting the PERFECT book to read after Ayn Rand, to accept her philosophy, but clarify, balance and complicate it. Zen And The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. Mais bien sur.
Thanks, everyone I met, I am so filled with gratitude. Especially Francisco and Mena, for Mena’s AMAZING sunday feast of homemade gnocchi.
We did some walking, some music, a little yoga, a little shanti, some lunch, more shanti, some thoughtful time, more yoga, some more shanti… Actually, we did a lot of shanti.